Celebrating Carnival in Trinidad
In much of the English-speaking world, the term Bacchanalia has been largely abandoned to the classics and literary references. However in Trinidad the spirit of the Roman cult’s frenzied celebration of Bacchus, the god of wine, freedom, intoxication and ecstasy, has been embraced in popular culture. Although modern carnivals in general are Christian in origin, a final indulgence before the abstinence of Lent, the pagan roots are brought to the fore in Trinidad. Bacchanale is a word you’ll hear often in Soca, the predominant musical form on the island, which is infused with the celebratory spirit and often, the overt sexual references that the word implies.
Alcohol is of course a popular ingredient to the proceedings but here wine has taken on a more important meaning as the verb to describe the buttock gyrating dance, derived from African traditions, a cousin of the now widely known twerking. Wine and grind is a common couplet found in songs requiring little imagination to decode. Winin’ is much on display during the two main days of the Carnival on the streets of the capital Port of Spain, no doubt even more so as after hours festivities stretch onto the night.
In case you’re thinking, “oh dear, the poor lady has fallen over”! This is just one of the more energetic positions used when winin n grindin’
In reality, Carnival is more of a season than two days of celebration. Soon after New Year, steel bands are out practicing in their yards, open for anyone to watch and listen. Around Trinidad and its sister island Tobago, fetes get locals warming up. Nearer the big event, a whole host of smaller celebrations and band competitions provide plenty of opportunity to justify varied return visits, if you want to come back for future carnivals. You might want to think about getting fit before visiting though if you want to keep up with the locals.
A lot of effort goes into making many of the costumes
Guys can make an effort as well
Although the biggest carnival in the Caribbean and probably well beyond, its relatively spread out so rarely oppressively packed if you are inclined to freak out in the big crowds you can find in Rio. There are several judging points along the routes taken by the parade, where acts perform, mas bands (masquerade bands – groups with coordinated costumes centred around a truck mounted sound system) show off their costumes and revellers show what they’re made of by upping the dance energy.
It’s at the judging points that dj’s will play the biggest tunes to get their mas band pumped up, to show off to the judges. The most played song during the two days earns the title of Road March. The artist could still be profiting from the award for many years after, such is the prestige. This years winner was Famalay, sung by Skinny Fabulous, Machel Montano and Bunju Garlin – a kind of Three Tenors of Soca music, all being well established names. If you don’t like this tune then you’re probably not suited to Carnival, as you need to keep up with this kind of pace
There’s a dragon waiting at the traffic lights. It can only be Carnival.
This guy might look chilly but there’s no chance of the weather being the same
I wouldn’t argue with this one if I were you
It’s rather easy to forget that this all takes place in a relatively conservative society. Carnival has always had an element of breaking social norms for a brief window of opportunity and those most definitely are, particularly for women. It would be wrong to focus too closely on the apparent sexuality of the event, by all means celebrate that if you wish, but don’t assume Trinidadians look on it in the same way. One of its refreshing aspects is that women of all shapes and sizes can get out and strut their stuff in the skimpiest of outfits without being judged for it. Going by some of the larger ladies I saw having a fantastic time, I find it hard to belive that fat shaming is a thing at all here, at least during carnival.
Obviously for a man of my age it can be quite distressing to deal with such bacchanalian sights but I bravely soldiered on in the face of overwhelming odds
There’s something for the ladies as well but I do apologise for failing to get a decent picture of some of the better specimens of bare chested manhood on offer
Needless to say the rules are suspended for Carnival
Its not just banging tunes and wild revelry though, other aspects of local culture get their place in the spotlight. Minstrel bands and story tellers link to older times but their themes may be modern. Minstrels are an imitation of the American minstrel or blackface tradition which, of course itself was white people imitating black culture.
Although occasionally drowned out by 30kW of booming soca, a few minstrel bands provided some welcome relief
Forms of storytelling, poetry and some of the mythical characters portrayed at Carnival have evolved from African traditions
Devils in various forms are an essential feature
You’re guaranteed to see mischevious blue devils somewhere
A large portion of the population has its roots in the Indian subcontinent and it always has some influence in Carnival. Musically the Indian/Trinidad culture is represented by the delightfully named Chutny music
You can be assured of a warm welcome from Trinidadians, whether you play mas (join the carnival in costume) or just enjoy the atmosphere. Cheerfully greeting people in the street is not regarded as weird, unlike under some of the cold grey skies of England. People constantly displayed a concern for my welfare and wanted to be sure I was enjoying myself, although it’s difficult to see how anyone could have a bad time, unless you had a particular aversion to soca music – in which case I’d have to end this relationship right now.
